What Your Puppy Needs To Know, by Dr. Jen

So you just came home from the shelter or breeder with a cute new puppy. He is curled up on your lap, or maybe falling all over himself running around in the yard, and your heart is so full of love that you know you'll never let him go.

But sadly, many puppies like this will end up at the shelter, often because their behavior became unpleasant as they grew.

Fortunately, a few training commands can help your puppy grow up to be a loved family member, instead of a nuisance. I recommend that you find a good trainer for either private lessons or group lessons. There are also many books and videos with training tips. Look for a method that focuses on reward-based training, and where the corrections are not harsh, for a good bonding experience with your pup.

Sit and Down

Your dog knowing how to sit is invaluable. Once he has learned it, practice in many places and situations, especially with other dogs and people around. Having a dog sit can help calm an overexcited mind, or redirect behaviors such as jumping up on house guests or pouncing on a much smaller dog, Teaching “down” also gives you another tool to ask him to do something calmer.

 Come

This is a biggie. If your dog slips out of the house or off his leash and heads for a busy street, having the “come” command reliably trained can save his life and prevent injuries. Using it when he's headed for a scared dog or child can make for happy neighbors! Always praise and/or reward him when he comes to you, even if it wasn't right away.

Leave it

This one can save your dinner if he can reach it before you can. Or it can save your dog if he's headed for something disgusting or dangerous, like a snake!

Kennel (or crate or bed)

Having your dog go to a kennel or bed on command is very useful. Sometimes you might need him out of the way, with a friend or child visiting who is afraid of dogs, or when he is begging for food and you want him away from the table. If you are house training, the kennel can be very useful when you are gone.

Walk nicely on a leash

There is nothing fun about being dragged down the street by an 85lb dog who just saw a squirrel! Your puppy can start learning right away that you only go forward on the leash if it is loose. He doesn't have to do a perfect “heel” unless you want him to, but you should be the one deciding where you go when you walk.

Although all you might want to do with your new family member is play, spend just 10-15 minutes a day working on these commands. Keep the training sessions short, and don't introduce too many new things at once. Be patient and consistent, and your cute little furball will remain a loving and welcome family member for many years to come!

Written by Dr. Jeni Bansel, DVM

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Read more or contact Dr. Jen:
Jeni Bansel, DVM
Lap of Love Veterinary Hospice
Charleston, SC
drjen@lapoflove.com  |  www.lapoflove.com

Dr. Bansel services towns in and around Alachua county including Gainesville, Hawthorne, Alachua, Newberry, Micanopy, Hawthorne, Ocala, Starke, Archer and High Springs.

Rattlesnake Bites in Pets: Signs and What to do if Bitten Coiled Prairie Rattlesnake

CREDIT: National Geographic

Toxin
Snake venom

Source
Most snake bites are from pit vipers, which are poisonous snakes that are identified by their triangular heads, retractable fangs, and a special heat-sensing pit between the eye and nostril. North American pit vipers include five subspecies of copperheads, three subspecies of water moccasins, three subspecies of pygmy rattlesnakes, three subspecies of massauga, and at least 26 subspecies of rattlesnakes. Water moccasins and copperheads are found in the eastern United States and southward through Texas. Rattlesnakes are found throughout the contiguous United States, with the highest concentration in the south and southwest.

General Information
Snake bites tend to occur on the pet's head or neck. Bites involving the trunk of the body have a poorer prognosis. Snake bites may affect one or more body systems including the cardiopulmonary system, the nervous system, or the coagulation system. Usually, if the snake is not poisonous or the venom was not injected, the pain, swelling, and bruising at the bite site will be minimal.

Toxic Dose
Varies. Envenomation does not always occur. The severity of envenomation is related to the time of the year, the volume of venom present in the snake, the location of the bite, the number of bites, and the amount of victim movement after the bite (movement increases the spread of the venom). The amount of venom is not related to the size of the snake. Systemic signs such as kidney damage may take 24-72 hours to develop in mild envenomations, so the animal should be observed closely for several days.

SOURCE and more information

Signs
May see one, two, or several small puncture wounds, bleeding, bruising, immediate and extremely painful swelling at the site of the bite, and tissue necrosis. The more severe systemic signs may take up to several hours to appear and include hypotension and shock, lethargy and weakness, muscle tremors, nausea, vomiting, and neurological signs including depressed respiration.

Immediate Action
Identify the snake if possible. Restrict movement of the pet. Loosely immobilize the limb in a functional position if bitten on an extremity. DO NOT incise the bite wound to aspirate the venom and DO NOT apply a tourniquet without veterinary assistance. DO NOT apply ice to the area. Seek veterinary attention.

SOURCE and more information

Veterinary Care
General treatment: The animal will be kept quiet and the bitten area immobilized if possible to decrease the spread of the venom. The area around the wound will be clipped and cleaned.

Supportive treatment: Antihistamines may be administered and IV fluids given to help prevent low blood pressure. Oxygen is given if needed. Antibiotics are used to prevent secondary infections. Pain medication is provided as necessary. Laboratory tests to check for bleeding problems and organ damage will be performed repeatedly. Blood transfusions may be necessary in cases of severe coagulopathies. The area above and below the bite wounds may be measured every 15 minutes to monitor the edema. Nonsteroidal anti-inflammatory drugs (NSAIDs) are contraindicated in the early phase (first 24 hours) of treatment because of the different types of venom and the anticoagulant effects of NSAIDs. The use of corticosteroids may be contraindicated also, as some research shows they increase the severity of the bite.

Specific treatment: Antivenin* may be administered. The use of antivenin is controversial and is used at the discretion of the attending veterinarian. To be most effective, antivenin should be given within 4 hours of the bite. It becomes less effective as more time passes.

All snake bite victims should be observed for a minimum of 12 hours, even when there are no clinical signs. If clinical signs are present, the length of observation is increased to 48-72 hours, as damage to organs may not appear immediately.

Prognosis 
A study of animals bitten by pit vipers showed that those treated with antivenin, intravenous fluids, and antibiotics had a mortality rate less than 1% and local tissue damage was rare. The mortality rate in untreated patients depended on the species of snake involved. For example, in patients bitten by the Northern Pacific Rattlesnakes, the mortality rate was about 10%. In the much more dangerous Mojave rattlesnake, it could be as high as 35%.

*Two companies, Fort Dodge and Wyeth Ayerst Laboratories produce antivenin. Veterinary clinics and human hospitals in areas that have a high population of pit vipers have this product on hand. Many owners want to carry this product with them, but because of the intravenous administration and instability of the product, it is recommended that a veterinarian give it.

Article Source (PDF): UC Davis- Animal Pharm News:"Rattlesnake Envenomation" March 2006

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Written by:

Charles Jameson, DVM
Lap of Love Veterinary Hospice:
Houston location

Dr Jameson serves towns in and around Houston, TX including Galveston, Pearland, Spring, Pasadena, Missouri City, The Woodlands, Richmond, Bellaire, Kingwood, West University Place, Sugarland, Baytown, and Friendswood.

http://www.lapoflove.com 

Goat Ownership 101

Photo by KKirugi
(Click to see original on Flickr.)

All about goats!

Vaccination for Goats

• Goats are extremely susceptible to tetanus and should be vaccinated at a young age, before either dehorning or castrating. 
• Most veterinarians recommend a CD&T vaccine. This protects from two types of Clostridial (bacterial) diseases: one of the gastrointestinal tract and the other being tetanus. 
• Goats should receive their first CD&T vaccine at 6 weeks and a booster at 13 weeks. 
• Rabies should be given at 3 months of age. 
• Both vaccines are boostered on an annual basis. 

Diet for Goats

• The goat diet is based largely on forage. Basic grass hay makes up the majority of their diet.
• It is better to avoid Alfalfa hay for males as it has been associated with an increased incidence of urethral blockage. 
• Grain should be kept to a minimum. Most goats need very little to no grain but feeding a “meal” will allow time for you to inspect them individually as well as handle them on a daily basis. 
• If you have castrated male goats, it is important that ammonium chloride be a part of their diet. This will aid in the prevention of urolithiasis – urinary blockage - which is a life threatening emergency if not corrected immediately. There are several goat feeds which include ammonium chloride (for example, many meat goat diets include it) or it can be bought separately and added to the feed separately. 

Castration for Goats

• Just as is recommended for our dog and cat friends, male goats should be castrated. 
• Although female goats are not routinely spayed, castrated males are less aggressive and less destructive. In addition, castrating a male goat will decrease their offensive odor. Intact male goats do not make good pets and are often far more “trouble” than their castrated counterparts. 
• As far as the “right” time to have your make goat castrated, the sooner the better. Goat testicles drop into the scrotum at an early age and are often present by 1 week old. Although some people use elastrator bands to castrate their goats, there are several humane issues associated with this and surgical castration is often preferred. 
• The surgery is quick, easy and often done on the farm. Pain management will be provided by your veterinarian and most goats are up and running in no time at all. 

Dehorning Goats

• Just as with castrating, the earlier the better for dehorning goats. 
• When done at a very young age, goats can be “disbudded” rather than dehorned. This procedure is easier on you, the goat, and requires little to no aftercare. However, disbudding must be done between 1 and 4 weeks of age. After about 4 weeks old, the horny tissue has grown large enough that it must then be dehorned. 
• The procedure for disbudding uses cautery to burn away the horny tissue. This will prevent horns from ever forming. 
• Once goats reach about 4 to 6 weeks old they will need to be dehorned. Although not a difficult procedure, there is a fair amount of aftercare and the procedure itself is more painful than disbudding.
• Dehorned or disbudded goats make safer, less destructive pets. Horned goats are destructive to both property as well as other animals. Horned goats are very good at getting stuck in fences, wires, and even breaking their horns, leading to a veterinary emergency.

Written by Dr. Courtney Culbertson, DVM

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Read more or contact Dr. Courtney:
Courtney Culbertson, DVM
Lap of Love Veterinary Hospice
Charleston, SC
charleston@lapoflove.com  |  www.lapoflove.com

Dr. Courtney assists families with Pet Hospice and Euthanasia in the Charleston, South Carolina area including but not limited to Beaufort, Berkeley, Colleton, Dorchester, Hampton, Jasper and Orangeburg Counties.

Radio show: Healthy Pet Headquarters, featuring Lap of Love's Dr. Dani McVety discussing end-of-life care

Tune into the radio show Healthy Pet Headquarters to hear Lap of Love's Dr. Dani McVety discussing that all-too-important yet throat-catching topic: end-of-life care. How can you ease this transition for your pet in a way that fulfills their health and comfort needs while tending to the bond with their family? This show covers these important points sensitively. Continue to show (or download the episode for later):

http://www.blogtalkradio.com/authorsglobalradionetwork/2013/06/17/healthy-pet-hq-with-jodi-ziskin

Summertime Threats to Pets by Dr. Dana Lewis

Cookouts and Potlucks 

The food people consume can cause mild vomiting and diarrhea to potentially fatal pancreatitis in our beloved pets. Corn cobs, bamboo skewers, and bones can cause foreign bodies requiring expensive life-saving surgery.

Keep them away from the grill because of the risk of burns and also many dogs will lick up any grease from the grill and give themselves pancreatitis.

Most people know that some foods are toxic to pets like chocolate, but so are the artificial sweetener, xylitol, as well as grapes, raisins, onions, alcoholic beverages, and others. (See our post on holiday hazards). Keep them indoors when company comes over and keep them away from the trash after everybody calls it a day.

Pool Chemicals 

Undiluted pool chemicals can be corrosive to the eyes, skin, mouth, esophagus, etc., and result in permanent injury. Always keep pool chemicals and cleaners safely out of the reach of pets and children. Also, not all pets can swim, so supervise them at the pool just like the kids.

The Beach

If large amounts of ocean water are ingested while playing on the beach, hypernatremia (an elevated salt level) can occur. Salt poisoning leads to vomiting, diarrhea, lethargy, excessive thirst or urination, tremors, seizures, coma and even death.

Instead of allowing dogs to drink from the ocean, provide them with fresh water. Also, do not let them eat beach sand as that can cause a blockage of the intestines requiring surgery. Again, be cautious letting them swim. Consider a life jacket for all swimmers whether at the pool, beach, or lake. And be aware that pets can also become sunburned as well as suffer from heat stroke even if they are enjoying the water. Short nosed dogs and dogs exercising a lot are at greater risk. Pets cannot dissipate heat like we do by sweating so watch them for heavy panting and difficulty breathing, a bright red tongue and gums, saliva is thick and tenacious, and the dog often vomits. The dog becomes lethargic and unsteady, and passes bloody diarrhea. The dog goes into shock and the lips and mucous membranes turn gray. Collapse, seizures, coma, and death rapidly ensue.



Fireworks 

Besides being potentially frightening to your pet, unused fireworks can be toxic if ingested. The chemicals in fireworks that make them pretty can cause kidney damage, seizures, liver damage, blood cell toxicity, and vomiting and diarrhea. They can also burn themselves or be injured by exploding fireworks so keep them indoors during the festivities. If your pet is frightened by the noise, talk with your veterinarian about what can be done for noise phobia (See our post on thunderstorm phobia).

Article written by Dr. Dana Lewis

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Read more or contact Dr. Dana:
Dana Lewis, DVM
Lap of Love Veterinary Hospice
Raleigh, North Carolina
drdana@lapoflove.com  |  www.lapoflove.com

Dr. Dana assists families with Pet Hospice and Euthanasia in the Raleigh North Carolina area (Raleigh, Durham, Chapel Hill and the greater Triangle, as well as Wake, Durham, Orange, and Chatham counties. 

Dental care of rabbits, by Dr. Laura Theobald

Dental Husbandry of Rabbits 

Dental care of rabbits is something that starts at home with a knowledgeable pet parent by knowing what to feed, how rabbits chew, and what to look for if there are problems.

Rabbit Teeth / Dental Model

Rabbit teeth grow continuously and are known as hypsodont, or open-rooted teeth and their adult teeth are fully erupted by three to five weeks of age. They have four upper and two lower incisors. The two smaller upper incisors are referred to as “peg” teeth. They grow at approximately 2 mm per week. The premolar and molar teeth are referred to as the “cheek” teeth. These are used for grinding of coarse material.

Rabbits need a high-fiber, herbivorous diet not only for appropriate dental care but for proper digestion. This type of diet should consist of 75-80% hay, generally western timothy, with the remaining portion consisting of high quality pellets and fresh fruits and vegetables. Chewing is characterized by up to 120 jaw movements per minute with a side-to-side motion, which helps keep the constantly growing teeth worn down to their proper levels.

A rabbit whose diet is deficient in fiber, such as a pellet only diet, will be unable to properly wear down its teeth and eventually develop malocclusion (improper tooth alignment). When this happens, the teeth become longer and longer and eventually develop sharp edges known as spurs and cause pressure against each other. These problems can lead to cuts in the tongue, soft tissue injuries and even tooth root abscesses/impactions. Once rabbits have these problems, they are more likely to have them throughout their lives and require frequent anesthetic procedures to trim the teeth and relieve abscesses.

A veterinarian that is familiar with rabbits can do a minimal exam while the pet is awake by inspecting the front incisors and by using a lighted cone to look at the cheek teeth. A full thorough oral exam requires anesthesia by someone who has experience with rabbits.

Written by Dr. Laura Theobald
Lap of Love Veterinary Hospice

Dr. Theobald works with Dr. Hawthorne helping families with In Home Hospice and Pet Euthanasia in the Charlotte North Carolina region. For more information, please see their profile page. http://www.lapoflove.com/North_Carolina_Charlotte 

Thunderstorm phobia in dogs, by Dr. Cindi Worral

Photo by Paul Dings
(Click to see original on Flickr.)

Summer is here and we all know what that means: vacations, barbeques, swimming, and thunderstorms. Unfortunately, some of our four-footed companions suffer from thunderstorm phobias. A phobia is defined as an excessive and irrational response to stimuli that is dysfunctional and disruptive to normal functioning. A dog suffering from thunderstorm phobia has responses which include physical, physiological, and emotional aspects. The physical response includes such things as attempts to escape, finding a safe place, shadowing their owner, hiding, pacing, whining, and barking. The physiological responses include an increase in heart rate, pupil dilation, salivation, and an increase in the release of stress hormones. The emotional is the subjective experience of terror.

Photo by Melissa K.
(Click to see original on Flickr.)

It is difficult to know why some dogs develop this phobia and others remain largely unaffected by storms. There may be a genetic factor since herding breeds tend to be over-represented. Sometimes negative experiences can trigger phobias, as well. Thunderstorm phobias usually begin when a dog is one to two years of age. However, a dog may begin with only mild signs which become exacerbated later in life during a particularly severe storm.

Many fears in dogs can be treated with desensitization, which means reproducing the fearful stimulus in a safe and calm environment. This does not work very well for thunderstorm phobia. You can certainly recreate the sound of thunder and even simulate lightning. However, it is not just these things that cause fear. It is almost impossible to duplicate the rain, wind, changes in the barometric pressure, and changes in the static electric fields. Static electricity may play a large role in the fear since many dogs will try to hide in places that are electrical grounds, such as bathtubs, showers, behind toilet tanks, and against metal radiators or pipes.

What can we do to help our pets during storms? There are actually quite a few things that can help alleviate the fear.

1. Be available and remain calm: Sometimes just being present and staying calm can help. Just remember, our dogs can pick up on our emotions easily so if we get stressed out, that will reinforce their fear. Try to engage your dog in a game with their favorite toy. Provide comfort, but don't coddle them, as that will reward the fearful behavior.

2. Find a safe place: Find someplace in the house that can be used as a safety zone. Ideally, it should be a smaller space with no windows, or a room where the windows can be covered with thick, lined curtains or cardboard. Basements are often the best places. Turn on the lights to help mask the lightning and play classical music. Try to engage your dog in some upbeat interaction, such as play or even leash walking him around the room. A solid sided crate may also help. However, the crate door should remain open. The room should also contain water, food, toys, and treats. At first, you will have to take your dog to the room. After a while, he may head there himself at the first sign of an impending storm.

3. Ant-anxiety attire: There are a few products on the market in this category. The Thunder Shirt and Anxiety Wrap provide light pressure over the dog's body to help him feel secure. It's very similar to swaddling an infant. The Storm Defender also provides an anti-static liner.

4. Natural supplements and remedies: There are many herbal and all natural remedies on the market to reduce fear and anxiety in dogs. Check with your veterinarian before using any of them to make sure it is not contra-indicated with any health issues affecting your dog. There are also pheromone diffusers and collars available. These contain synthetic dog appeasing pheromone, or D.A.P., which dogs naturally release when nursing.

5. Prescription anti-anxiety medications: For some dogs, none of the above recommendations seem to help. In these cases, anti-anxiety medications may be the only thing that can relieve their stress and fear. Many people are reluctant to "drug" their dogs. These medications are not meant to cause sedation and mask the fear, they actually help relieve the stress and fear the dog experiences. If you think your dog may benefit from an anti-anxiety medication, talk to your veterinarian.

Veterinary Practice News, Thunderstorm Phobia in Dogs- An Update, Aug. 18, 2011, Nicholas Dodman, BVMS, Dipl. ACVB DVM 360, Storm Phobias, Sept. 1, 2004, Karen L. Overall, MA, VMD, PhD, Dipl. ACVB, CAAB 

Written by Dr. Cindi Worral

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Read more or contact Dr. Worral:

Dr. Cindi Worral
Lap of Love Veterinary Hospice
berks@lapoflove.com
www.lapoflove.com
(484) 504-9482

Dr. Worral services Berks County, parts of Western Montgomery County including Pottstown, Collegeville, Lansdale, Norristown, and King of Prussia and parts of Northern Chester County including Coventry, Phoenixville, and Honeybrook Some of Southern Lehigh County, including Macungie, Allentown and Emmaus.