Feline inappropriate urination, by Dr. Suzanne

Feline inappropriate urination (house soiling) can be a very frustrating situation to deal with. Hopefully the following will help you understand why your cat may be doing this, and will help you resolve the issue.

There are three primary causes of inappropriate elimination in cats:

1. Medical problems such as urinary tract infections, bladder stones, stress, or metabolic diseases such as diabetes or kidney disease.
2. Litter box aversion.
3. Territorial (spraying)

Medical problems

A cat that is urinating in the house should be examined by a veterinarian to rule out medical problems. Your veterinarian may run a urinalysis, blood work, and/or x- rays to do this. If no medical problem is detected, the inappropriate elimination may be assumed to be a behavioral problem.

Litter Box Aversion

This is due to dissatisfaction with the litter box, the litter, the cleanliness of the box, or the location of the box. It is usually characterized by urinating on horizontal surfaces in low traffic areas, such as the corner of the room, or the floor. Recommendations to help with this are:

1) Length of the litter box should be at least 2.5 times the length of the cat.
2) Use non hooded boxes and do not use litter liners.
3) Clean box daily and wash with soap and water at least once a week.
4) Have one box per cat in the home plus one additional, and place in different locations and even at the sights of inappropriate elimination.
5) Prevent access to the area where the elimination has been occurring when possible.

Spraying

Spraying usually occurs in multiple cat households for territorial reasons and is on vertical surfaces. It is a normal instinctual behavior in intact cats. It can also be a response to a change in the environment such as a new pet or baby, construction, or even a stray cat outside near windows or doors. Recommendations to prevent this are: spaying/neutering your cat, place items at the site of urination to dissuade your cat such as moth balls or aluminum foil, close curtains to prevent your cat from seeing outdoor cats. Feliway is a pheromone diffuser that can also be helpful in preventing spraying. Medications available from your veterinarian can also be helpful if other modifications have been unsuccessful.

Written by Dr. Suzanne Brough, DVM

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Read more or contact Dr. Suzanne:

Suzanne Brough, DVM
Lap of Love Veterinary Hospice
Naples Florida
drsuzanne@lapoflove.com |drsuzanne@lapoflove.com www.lapoflove.com

 Dr. Bansel services towns in and around Collier and Lee counties including: Naples, Estero, Bonita Springs, Ft Myers, and Port Charlotte.

Environmental Enrichment for Cats, by Dr. Suzanne

Photo by Cuba Gallery
(Click to see original on Flickr)

Indoor cats live longer and healthier lives due to the fact that they are not exposed to the dangers that outdoor cats have (cars, other animals, toxins, etc.). However, environmental enrichment is extremely important for indoor only cats to prevent them from being deprived of natural behaviors such as hunting, exploring, and social interaction. The stress of limited environmental stimulation can negatively impact your cat, and lead to many behavioral and medical problems such as obesity, inappropriate elimination, inflammation of the urinary tract, anxiety, and aggression.

Photo by Matt Ducke
(Click to see original on Flickr)

Feeding and Diet

In the wild, cats eat 10-20 small meals over a 24 hour period. Therefore, feeding multiple small meals throughout the day is more consistent with natural feeding habits. While leaving dry food out all day ,ay make this easier, most wet foods tend to be lower in carbohydrates and higher in protein which can help with maintaining lean body weight. In addition, there are many ways to encourage your cat to hunt for their food such as food balls or food pyramids. It is also best to provide at least one bowl per cat in the home to prevent any competition, and place food bowls in a quiet or elevated area so that they may feel safe.

Photo by Amy Shojai
(Click to see original on Flickr)

Litter Boxes

Litter boxes should be placed in different locations throughout the house, and be in places where your cat will feel safe. They should be cleaned at least once daily, and washed with soap and water once a week. As a general rule, you should have one litter box per cat in the home, plus one. Large, uncovered boxes are usually preferred, however some cats prefer covered boxes. There are many different types of litter available, and it is best to alow your cat to choose by providing as assortment of litters, and ultimately selecting the one that he/she likes

Photo by Angus
(Click to see original on Flickr)

Scratching Posts

Scratching is a natural behavior for cats to both sharpen their claws and to mark their territory. Cat scratchers should be placed in your cats favorite areas of the house. Most pets prefer vertical to horizontal scratchers, but try both and entice your cat by placing cat nip, toys or treats on it. Never yell or punish your cat when scratching furniture, but instead use double sided tape to defer him from that location. In addition, praise your cat when he/she uses the scratcher.

Photo by Jasar Creative
(Click to see original on Flickr)

Perching or Climbing Towers

High places, such as perches are very important to their natural behavior because cats like to climb and prefer high places. It allows them to feel safe, and watch from above. One perch per cat is ideal, and should be placed in your cats favorite places, preferably near a window.

Photo by Adam Russell
(Click to see original on Flickr)

Toys and Mental Stimulation

This is also an extremely important factor in an indoor only cat’s life. Mental stimulation can be provided by window seats near a bird feeder, or a variety of cat toys (laser light to simulate bugs, toys tied to a string to simulate rodents). Be sure to rotate toys, and put them away after playing to prevent a loss on interest.

Photo by Niklas Pivic
(Click to see original on Flickr)

Social Interactions with Humans

Spending time every day brushing, petting, or playing with your cat is one of the most important aspects of environmental enrichment for your cat. At least 15 minutes per day is encouraged.

Written by Dr. Suzanne Brough, DVM

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Read more or contact Dr. Suzanne:

Suzanne Brough, DVM
Lap of Love Veterinary Hospice
Naples Florida
drsuzanne@lapoflove.com |drsuzanne@lapoflove.com www.lapoflove.com

 Dr. Bansel services towns in and around Collier and Lee counties including: Naples, Estero, Bonita Springs, Ft Myers, and Port Charlotte.

What Your Puppy Needs To Know, by Dr. Jen

So you just came home from the shelter or breeder with a cute new puppy. He is curled up on your lap, or maybe falling all over himself running around in the yard, and your heart is so full of love that you know you'll never let him go.

But sadly, many puppies like this will end up at the shelter, often because their behavior became unpleasant as they grew.

Fortunately, a few training commands can help your puppy grow up to be a loved family member, instead of a nuisance. I recommend that you find a good trainer for either private lessons or group lessons. There are also many books and videos with training tips. Look for a method that focuses on reward-based training, and where the corrections are not harsh, for a good bonding experience with your pup.

Sit and Down

Your dog knowing how to sit is invaluable. Once he has learned it, practice in many places and situations, especially with other dogs and people around. Having a dog sit can help calm an overexcited mind, or redirect behaviors such as jumping up on house guests or pouncing on a much smaller dog, Teaching “down” also gives you another tool to ask him to do something calmer.

 Come

This is a biggie. If your dog slips out of the house or off his leash and heads for a busy street, having the “come” command reliably trained can save his life and prevent injuries. Using it when he's headed for a scared dog or child can make for happy neighbors! Always praise and/or reward him when he comes to you, even if it wasn't right away.

Leave it

This one can save your dinner if he can reach it before you can. Or it can save your dog if he's headed for something disgusting or dangerous, like a snake!

Kennel (or crate or bed)

Having your dog go to a kennel or bed on command is very useful. Sometimes you might need him out of the way, with a friend or child visiting who is afraid of dogs, or when he is begging for food and you want him away from the table. If you are house training, the kennel can be very useful when you are gone.

Walk nicely on a leash

There is nothing fun about being dragged down the street by an 85lb dog who just saw a squirrel! Your puppy can start learning right away that you only go forward on the leash if it is loose. He doesn't have to do a perfect “heel” unless you want him to, but you should be the one deciding where you go when you walk.

Although all you might want to do with your new family member is play, spend just 10-15 minutes a day working on these commands. Keep the training sessions short, and don't introduce too many new things at once. Be patient and consistent, and your cute little furball will remain a loving and welcome family member for many years to come!

Written by Dr. Jeni Bansel, DVM

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Read more or contact Dr. Jen:
Jeni Bansel, DVM
Lap of Love Veterinary Hospice
Charleston, SC
drjen@lapoflove.com  |  www.lapoflove.com

Dr. Bansel services towns in and around Alachua county including Gainesville, Hawthorne, Alachua, Newberry, Micanopy, Hawthorne, Ocala, Starke, Archer and High Springs.

Rattlesnake Bites in Pets: Signs and What to do if Bitten Coiled Prairie Rattlesnake

CREDIT: National Geographic

Toxin
Snake venom

Source
Most snake bites are from pit vipers, which are poisonous snakes that are identified by their triangular heads, retractable fangs, and a special heat-sensing pit between the eye and nostril. North American pit vipers include five subspecies of copperheads, three subspecies of water moccasins, three subspecies of pygmy rattlesnakes, three subspecies of massauga, and at least 26 subspecies of rattlesnakes. Water moccasins and copperheads are found in the eastern United States and southward through Texas. Rattlesnakes are found throughout the contiguous United States, with the highest concentration in the south and southwest.

General Information
Snake bites tend to occur on the pet's head or neck. Bites involving the trunk of the body have a poorer prognosis. Snake bites may affect one or more body systems including the cardiopulmonary system, the nervous system, or the coagulation system. Usually, if the snake is not poisonous or the venom was not injected, the pain, swelling, and bruising at the bite site will be minimal.

Toxic Dose
Varies. Envenomation does not always occur. The severity of envenomation is related to the time of the year, the volume of venom present in the snake, the location of the bite, the number of bites, and the amount of victim movement after the bite (movement increases the spread of the venom). The amount of venom is not related to the size of the snake. Systemic signs such as kidney damage may take 24-72 hours to develop in mild envenomations, so the animal should be observed closely for several days.

SOURCE and more information

Signs
May see one, two, or several small puncture wounds, bleeding, bruising, immediate and extremely painful swelling at the site of the bite, and tissue necrosis. The more severe systemic signs may take up to several hours to appear and include hypotension and shock, lethargy and weakness, muscle tremors, nausea, vomiting, and neurological signs including depressed respiration.

Immediate Action
Identify the snake if possible. Restrict movement of the pet. Loosely immobilize the limb in a functional position if bitten on an extremity. DO NOT incise the bite wound to aspirate the venom and DO NOT apply a tourniquet without veterinary assistance. DO NOT apply ice to the area. Seek veterinary attention.

SOURCE and more information

Veterinary Care
General treatment: The animal will be kept quiet and the bitten area immobilized if possible to decrease the spread of the venom. The area around the wound will be clipped and cleaned.

Supportive treatment: Antihistamines may be administered and IV fluids given to help prevent low blood pressure. Oxygen is given if needed. Antibiotics are used to prevent secondary infections. Pain medication is provided as necessary. Laboratory tests to check for bleeding problems and organ damage will be performed repeatedly. Blood transfusions may be necessary in cases of severe coagulopathies. The area above and below the bite wounds may be measured every 15 minutes to monitor the edema. Nonsteroidal anti-inflammatory drugs (NSAIDs) are contraindicated in the early phase (first 24 hours) of treatment because of the different types of venom and the anticoagulant effects of NSAIDs. The use of corticosteroids may be contraindicated also, as some research shows they increase the severity of the bite.

Specific treatment: Antivenin* may be administered. The use of antivenin is controversial and is used at the discretion of the attending veterinarian. To be most effective, antivenin should be given within 4 hours of the bite. It becomes less effective as more time passes.

All snake bite victims should be observed for a minimum of 12 hours, even when there are no clinical signs. If clinical signs are present, the length of observation is increased to 48-72 hours, as damage to organs may not appear immediately.

Prognosis 
A study of animals bitten by pit vipers showed that those treated with antivenin, intravenous fluids, and antibiotics had a mortality rate less than 1% and local tissue damage was rare. The mortality rate in untreated patients depended on the species of snake involved. For example, in patients bitten by the Northern Pacific Rattlesnakes, the mortality rate was about 10%. In the much more dangerous Mojave rattlesnake, it could be as high as 35%.

*Two companies, Fort Dodge and Wyeth Ayerst Laboratories produce antivenin. Veterinary clinics and human hospitals in areas that have a high population of pit vipers have this product on hand. Many owners want to carry this product with them, but because of the intravenous administration and instability of the product, it is recommended that a veterinarian give it.

Article Source (PDF): UC Davis- Animal Pharm News:"Rattlesnake Envenomation" March 2006

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Written by:

Charles Jameson, DVM
Lap of Love Veterinary Hospice:
Houston location

Dr Jameson serves towns in and around Houston, TX including Galveston, Pearland, Spring, Pasadena, Missouri City, The Woodlands, Richmond, Bellaire, Kingwood, West University Place, Sugarland, Baytown, and Friendswood.

http://www.lapoflove.com 

Goat Ownership 101

Photo by KKirugi
(Click to see original on Flickr.)

All about goats!

Vaccination for Goats

• Goats are extremely susceptible to tetanus and should be vaccinated at a young age, before either dehorning or castrating. 
• Most veterinarians recommend a CD&T vaccine. This protects from two types of Clostridial (bacterial) diseases: one of the gastrointestinal tract and the other being tetanus. 
• Goats should receive their first CD&T vaccine at 6 weeks and a booster at 13 weeks. 
• Rabies should be given at 3 months of age. 
• Both vaccines are boostered on an annual basis. 

Diet for Goats

• The goat diet is based largely on forage. Basic grass hay makes up the majority of their diet.
• It is better to avoid Alfalfa hay for males as it has been associated with an increased incidence of urethral blockage. 
• Grain should be kept to a minimum. Most goats need very little to no grain but feeding a “meal” will allow time for you to inspect them individually as well as handle them on a daily basis. 
• If you have castrated male goats, it is important that ammonium chloride be a part of their diet. This will aid in the prevention of urolithiasis – urinary blockage - which is a life threatening emergency if not corrected immediately. There are several goat feeds which include ammonium chloride (for example, many meat goat diets include it) or it can be bought separately and added to the feed separately. 

Castration for Goats

• Just as is recommended for our dog and cat friends, male goats should be castrated. 
• Although female goats are not routinely spayed, castrated males are less aggressive and less destructive. In addition, castrating a male goat will decrease their offensive odor. Intact male goats do not make good pets and are often far more “trouble” than their castrated counterparts. 
• As far as the “right” time to have your make goat castrated, the sooner the better. Goat testicles drop into the scrotum at an early age and are often present by 1 week old. Although some people use elastrator bands to castrate their goats, there are several humane issues associated with this and surgical castration is often preferred. 
• The surgery is quick, easy and often done on the farm. Pain management will be provided by your veterinarian and most goats are up and running in no time at all. 

Dehorning Goats

• Just as with castrating, the earlier the better for dehorning goats. 
• When done at a very young age, goats can be “disbudded” rather than dehorned. This procedure is easier on you, the goat, and requires little to no aftercare. However, disbudding must be done between 1 and 4 weeks of age. After about 4 weeks old, the horny tissue has grown large enough that it must then be dehorned. 
• The procedure for disbudding uses cautery to burn away the horny tissue. This will prevent horns from ever forming. 
• Once goats reach about 4 to 6 weeks old they will need to be dehorned. Although not a difficult procedure, there is a fair amount of aftercare and the procedure itself is more painful than disbudding.
• Dehorned or disbudded goats make safer, less destructive pets. Horned goats are destructive to both property as well as other animals. Horned goats are very good at getting stuck in fences, wires, and even breaking their horns, leading to a veterinary emergency.

Written by Dr. Courtney Culbertson, DVM

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Read more or contact Dr. Courtney:
Courtney Culbertson, DVM
Lap of Love Veterinary Hospice
Charleston, SC
charleston@lapoflove.com  |  www.lapoflove.com

Dr. Courtney assists families with Pet Hospice and Euthanasia in the Charleston, South Carolina area including but not limited to Beaufort, Berkeley, Colleton, Dorchester, Hampton, Jasper and Orangeburg Counties.

Radio show: Healthy Pet Headquarters, featuring Lap of Love's Dr. Dani McVety discussing end-of-life care

Tune into the radio show Healthy Pet Headquarters to hear Lap of Love's Dr. Dani McVety discussing that all-too-important yet throat-catching topic: end-of-life care. How can you ease this transition for your pet in a way that fulfills their health and comfort needs while tending to the bond with their family? This show covers these important points sensitively. Continue to show (or download the episode for later):

http://www.blogtalkradio.com/authorsglobalradionetwork/2013/06/17/healthy-pet-hq-with-jodi-ziskin

Summertime Threats to Pets by Dr. Dana Lewis

Cookouts and Potlucks 

The food people consume can cause mild vomiting and diarrhea to potentially fatal pancreatitis in our beloved pets. Corn cobs, bamboo skewers, and bones can cause foreign bodies requiring expensive life-saving surgery.

Keep them away from the grill because of the risk of burns and also many dogs will lick up any grease from the grill and give themselves pancreatitis.

Most people know that some foods are toxic to pets like chocolate, but so are the artificial sweetener, xylitol, as well as grapes, raisins, onions, alcoholic beverages, and others. (See our post on holiday hazards). Keep them indoors when company comes over and keep them away from the trash after everybody calls it a day.

Pool Chemicals 

Undiluted pool chemicals can be corrosive to the eyes, skin, mouth, esophagus, etc., and result in permanent injury. Always keep pool chemicals and cleaners safely out of the reach of pets and children. Also, not all pets can swim, so supervise them at the pool just like the kids.

The Beach

If large amounts of ocean water are ingested while playing on the beach, hypernatremia (an elevated salt level) can occur. Salt poisoning leads to vomiting, diarrhea, lethargy, excessive thirst or urination, tremors, seizures, coma and even death.

Instead of allowing dogs to drink from the ocean, provide them with fresh water. Also, do not let them eat beach sand as that can cause a blockage of the intestines requiring surgery. Again, be cautious letting them swim. Consider a life jacket for all swimmers whether at the pool, beach, or lake. And be aware that pets can also become sunburned as well as suffer from heat stroke even if they are enjoying the water. Short nosed dogs and dogs exercising a lot are at greater risk. Pets cannot dissipate heat like we do by sweating so watch them for heavy panting and difficulty breathing, a bright red tongue and gums, saliva is thick and tenacious, and the dog often vomits. The dog becomes lethargic and unsteady, and passes bloody diarrhea. The dog goes into shock and the lips and mucous membranes turn gray. Collapse, seizures, coma, and death rapidly ensue.



Fireworks 

Besides being potentially frightening to your pet, unused fireworks can be toxic if ingested. The chemicals in fireworks that make them pretty can cause kidney damage, seizures, liver damage, blood cell toxicity, and vomiting and diarrhea. They can also burn themselves or be injured by exploding fireworks so keep them indoors during the festivities. If your pet is frightened by the noise, talk with your veterinarian about what can be done for noise phobia (See our post on thunderstorm phobia).

Article written by Dr. Dana Lewis

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Read more or contact Dr. Dana:
Dana Lewis, DVM
Lap of Love Veterinary Hospice
Raleigh, North Carolina
drdana@lapoflove.com  |  www.lapoflove.com

Dr. Dana assists families with Pet Hospice and Euthanasia in the Raleigh North Carolina area (Raleigh, Durham, Chapel Hill and the greater Triangle, as well as Wake, Durham, Orange, and Chatham counties.